Thinking of getting a bunny, but aren't completely sure how to care for them? Then you've come to the right place! Here we will cover all aspects of bunny care, from diet, to exercise, to behavior. And remember - if you have any questions, feel free to contact us!
** Please note this page is still under construction, we are working hard at finishing it! **
** Please note this page is still under construction, we are working hard at finishing it! **
Please note - we are not veterinarians, and this info is based off of personal experience and research.
Diet
Knowing what and what not to feed your bunny is crucial. A bunny has a sensitive digestive system, and so making sure they are getting top-notch pellets, hay, and vegetables is very important!
Hay - hay is by far the most important part of your bunnies diet. It is packed full of fiber that bunnies need. Always make sure your bunny has fresh hay to eat at all times. Most buns like to potty and munch hay at the same time, so I'd recommend either putting a big pile of hay in the corner of a large litter pan for your bunny, or using a hay rack with big enough slots is perfect. (Plastic bag holders work great as hay racks, and there are lots of other DIY hay racks)! Orchard grass, Timothy, and Oat hay are excellent options. Alfalfa is high in calories and sugar and shouldn't be fed to rabbits over around 5 months.
Click HERE to visit our Bunny checklist page and look at our favorite hay brands!
Click HERE to visit our Bunny checklist page and look at our favorite hay brands!
Pellets - pellets are also necessary to feed to your bunny. Pellets provide different vitamins and nutrients that hay alone cannot provide. The general guideline is 1/4 -1/3 cup daily for every 4-5 lbs of body weight. Make sure not to buy the pellets with the colorful little treats, nuts, fruits and/or seeds mixed in. These little treats contain unhealthy and even potentially dangerous ingredients for your bun. It is also likely your bunny will pick the treats out and not eat the actual healthy food.
Want to know what pellet brands are our favorite? Visit our bunny checklist page by clicking HERE!
Want to know what pellet brands are our favorite? Visit our bunny checklist page by clicking HERE!
Fruits & Vegetables - fresh foods are an important additive to your bun bun's diet. They provide lots of fresh vitamins and nutrients, and they also absolutely love them! It's recommended to feed your rabbit about 1 1/2 - 2 cups of veggies per every 4 lbs of body weight, at least a few times a week (every day is even better). You should always wait until your rabbit is at least 4 1/2 - 5 months old before you start feeding vegetables. Start in very small amounts, and slowly work your way up.
Fruits should only be fed in very small amounts, 4-5 times a week. They are high in sugar, and too much can cause digestive issues and in severe cases, send your bunny on a trip to the E.R. A rabbit under 6 months old should not have fruits.
A list of safe fruits and veggies for rabbits can be found on our bunny blog, by clicking *HERE.*
Fruits should only be fed in very small amounts, 4-5 times a week. They are high in sugar, and too much can cause digestive issues and in severe cases, send your bunny on a trip to the E.R. A rabbit under 6 months old should not have fruits.
A list of safe fruits and veggies for rabbits can be found on our bunny blog, by clicking *HERE.*
What NOT to feed your rabbit:
Seeds (none of those seed stick treats), bread, dairy (including yogurt drops advertised for rabbits!), corn, cookies, crackers, chips, nuts, quick cook oats (steal cut & rolled oats are fine in moderation), peanut butter, beans, rhubarb, meat, hamster food, cauliflower. Be cautious with cabbage, broccoli, and asparagus - these veggies are gassy and should be treated as fruits and fed in very small amounts. Rabbits cannot pass gas. Carrots should as be treated as if they were fruits as they are high in sugar.
Seeds (none of those seed stick treats), bread, dairy (including yogurt drops advertised for rabbits!), corn, cookies, crackers, chips, nuts, quick cook oats (steal cut & rolled oats are fine in moderation), peanut butter, beans, rhubarb, meat, hamster food, cauliflower. Be cautious with cabbage, broccoli, and asparagus - these veggies are gassy and should be treated as fruits and fed in very small amounts. Rabbits cannot pass gas. Carrots should as be treated as if they were fruits as they are high in sugar.
Housing
The main question I receive from people is; "What sort of cage should I buy for my new bunny?" And there isn't one clear answer. There are definitely some general guidelines to follow when buying a new cage (like don't buy a super tiny or all wire floor cage), but, again, there are quite a few different (and appropriate/spacious) housing options out there. We will go into depth about caging information below, and on our "Bunny Checklist / Recommended Products" page, you can find links and more info on our favorite housing situations!
First off, here's the golden rule with rabbit cages - the bigger, the better!! If you can provide your rabbit with a slightly bigger enclosure, then do it! They will thank you for the room to hop, binky, and stretch. BUT, rabbits always need playtime outside their cages. These are intelligent, active creatures that shouldn't waste away in a small cage.
When people think of where to buy their rabbit's cage, they instantly think; "Pet Store." I can't express how wrong that is! Cages at the pet store aren't only tiny, but are incredibly expensive (usually $80 - $150). Why would you do that, when you can go online and buy a pen online that is 3x the size and half the price?! Exactly! You wouldn't! People just don't know of the amazing housing situations you can find online. (Click HERE to visit our Bunny Checklist page, where I go over all the different cages & where to find them)!
When choosing whether to house your bunny in or outdoors, I'd always recommend indoors. Rabbits very easily overheat in temperatures over 80 - 90 degrees, and this is one of the leading causes of death. If you do choose to keep them outdoors, you'll need to know how to keep them cool in summer and warm in winter - to prevent overheating, make sure they always have shade, and you can use a fan / keep a few frozen water bottles in the freezer (they love to lay against frozen large soda bottles to keep cold - switch them out throughout the day). They do, however, handle the cold pretty well. However, this doesn't mean you shouldn't take some precautions. Have a blocked off area in the hutch that has lots of hay to burrow in, and even a heat lamp attached to the OUTSIDE of the cage works great. (Side note - please don't buy electric heat packs for your bun. I have heard multiple stories of bunnies who chewed these... and we all can guess how that went). With hutches, some are double or even triple decker... this doesn't mean they are necessarily better. Rabbits are not considered climbers, and if each level isn't much room, it still doesn't give them much room to run around and play / stretch out per level.
Wire or solid floors? A lot of people think that keeping your rabbit on wire flooring is abusive and causes sore hocks. This is untrue. Although wire can be used incorrectly and can cause sore hocks, solid floors can as well. IF you choose to use wire, you will need to provide a resting mat/piece of wood that is big enough for your bunny to lay down on. If you use solid floors (recommended, as this is what Whisper Lops bunnies are used to) - you'll need to provide different textures for their feet. Carpet is rough and can cause sore hocks. Try using a softer fleece as well as the solid floor - our bunny quilts we make here are great for your buns feet!
Click HERE to visit our bunny checklist page, to learn about our favorite pens, cages, and hutches!!
When people think of where to buy their rabbit's cage, they instantly think; "Pet Store." I can't express how wrong that is! Cages at the pet store aren't only tiny, but are incredibly expensive (usually $80 - $150). Why would you do that, when you can go online and buy a pen online that is 3x the size and half the price?! Exactly! You wouldn't! People just don't know of the amazing housing situations you can find online. (Click HERE to visit our Bunny Checklist page, where I go over all the different cages & where to find them)!
When choosing whether to house your bunny in or outdoors, I'd always recommend indoors. Rabbits very easily overheat in temperatures over 80 - 90 degrees, and this is one of the leading causes of death. If you do choose to keep them outdoors, you'll need to know how to keep them cool in summer and warm in winter - to prevent overheating, make sure they always have shade, and you can use a fan / keep a few frozen water bottles in the freezer (they love to lay against frozen large soda bottles to keep cold - switch them out throughout the day). They do, however, handle the cold pretty well. However, this doesn't mean you shouldn't take some precautions. Have a blocked off area in the hutch that has lots of hay to burrow in, and even a heat lamp attached to the OUTSIDE of the cage works great. (Side note - please don't buy electric heat packs for your bun. I have heard multiple stories of bunnies who chewed these... and we all can guess how that went). With hutches, some are double or even triple decker... this doesn't mean they are necessarily better. Rabbits are not considered climbers, and if each level isn't much room, it still doesn't give them much room to run around and play / stretch out per level.
Wire or solid floors? A lot of people think that keeping your rabbit on wire flooring is abusive and causes sore hocks. This is untrue. Although wire can be used incorrectly and can cause sore hocks, solid floors can as well. IF you choose to use wire, you will need to provide a resting mat/piece of wood that is big enough for your bunny to lay down on. If you use solid floors (recommended, as this is what Whisper Lops bunnies are used to) - you'll need to provide different textures for their feet. Carpet is rough and can cause sore hocks. Try using a softer fleece as well as the solid floor - our bunny quilts we make here are great for your buns feet!
Click HERE to visit our bunny checklist page, to learn about our favorite pens, cages, and hutches!!
Toys
A lot of people don't think about buying their new bunny toys. However, toys are VERY important! Some wooden / lava block toys help to wear a buns teeth down (which, fun fact - a bunnies teeth are always slowly growing & never stop), but they also provide some much needed mental stimulation and entertainment! Some toys aren't meant to be chewed, but instead, their sole purpose is to provide mental stimulation (Ex. treat balls, play tunnels, and stacking cups with treats hidden in them), while others are meant to provide a fun way to wear down a buns teeth (and provide some stimulation - examples include wooden, loofah, and lava block chews). Natural wooden toys are, in our opinion, the best option, as they don't contain unnecessary dyes. Oxbow has a fantastic line of wooden toys!
water dishes & Water Bottles
A lot of people wonder whether to offer their rabbit a water bottle, gravity waterer, or bowl. In the end, it really comes down to what you've found your rabbit prefers / uses well. Personally, I've noticed some of my bunnies don't drink a lot from a bottle - so those buns get bowls. And some of my bunnies drink just as much (or more) with a bottle. I prefer to use bottles because they are easier to use, cleaner, and don't tip - but your bunnies preferences are the most important!
Let's go over the pros / cons with bowls, now - one pro, is that they provide a more natural way of drinking for your bunnies. Another pro, is that bunnies don't have to "learn" to use a bowl of water, like they might with a bottle. Now, one con, is that bowls can get dirty really quick. They collect dust, hay, and sometimes, even poop. This means changing them up to a few times a day. Also, if you don't have a bowl that latches onto the cage (a crock dish), or a heavy ceramic bowl, your bunny can easily tip it, causing a messy flood. So, making sure you have a heavy ceramic dish or crock is key!
Now, for the pros / cons with bottles - one pro, is bottles are very clean. Theres no way any fur, hay, or poop is getting into the bottle - so the water stays fresh. Another pro, is that bottles are better to use when you have baby bunnies. I've had one instance where a baby hopped into a water bowl, and got wet (he was fine)! However, bottles aren't as "natural" as bowls. They also will often leak, which can be a total pain. Click HERE to visit our "Bunny Checklist / Recommended Products" page, and scroll down to see our favorite, tried and true bottle that actually doesn't leak, and is easy for our buns to drink out of!
Also, there are gravity waterers that work fantastic! They store water up above like a bottle, but also have a bowl for natural drinking.
Let's go over the pros / cons with bowls, now - one pro, is that they provide a more natural way of drinking for your bunnies. Another pro, is that bunnies don't have to "learn" to use a bowl of water, like they might with a bottle. Now, one con, is that bowls can get dirty really quick. They collect dust, hay, and sometimes, even poop. This means changing them up to a few times a day. Also, if you don't have a bowl that latches onto the cage (a crock dish), or a heavy ceramic bowl, your bunny can easily tip it, causing a messy flood. So, making sure you have a heavy ceramic dish or crock is key!
Now, for the pros / cons with bottles - one pro, is bottles are very clean. Theres no way any fur, hay, or poop is getting into the bottle - so the water stays fresh. Another pro, is that bottles are better to use when you have baby bunnies. I've had one instance where a baby hopped into a water bowl, and got wet (he was fine)! However, bottles aren't as "natural" as bowls. They also will often leak, which can be a total pain. Click HERE to visit our "Bunny Checklist / Recommended Products" page, and scroll down to see our favorite, tried and true bottle that actually doesn't leak, and is easy for our buns to drink out of!
Also, there are gravity waterers that work fantastic! They store water up above like a bottle, but also have a bowl for natural drinking.
Grooming
Grooming your rabbits fur and trimming their nails is incredibly important! A lot of people don’t think to do these two things (especially nail trimming), however, it is so, so important! Can’t stress that enough!
How often you should groom your rabbit, completely depends on what type of bun they are. For example, Lionheads, Angoras, Jersey Woolys, and other fuzzy breeds that have fluff on their body (rather than a short coat) require MUCH more grooming than a Holland Lop, Netherland Dwarf, or other short - coated breed. I currently own Lionheads and groom them approximately 3 times a week. Our Holland lops we usually groom about once a week during non - molting season, and spring molting season, (which is a couple times a year) we groom them every day to every other day.
For nail trimming, we do it every 3-5 weeks, and average being 4. We just check up on our buns around 3-4 weeks and see if they need their nails trimmed. If there’s a good amount of nail that can be cut past the quick (on some rabbits who have white or lightly colored nails, the quick is obvious and red, and on some rabbits, like blacks, you can’t really see it. A good trick is to get a flashlight and shine it on a dark rabbits nails, or, you can cut little bits off a time. Try pressing down twice - gently, and not cutting - and if they don’t flinch, your safe to cut).
How often you should groom your rabbit, completely depends on what type of bun they are. For example, Lionheads, Angoras, Jersey Woolys, and other fuzzy breeds that have fluff on their body (rather than a short coat) require MUCH more grooming than a Holland Lop, Netherland Dwarf, or other short - coated breed. I currently own Lionheads and groom them approximately 3 times a week. Our Holland lops we usually groom about once a week during non - molting season, and spring molting season, (which is a couple times a year) we groom them every day to every other day.
For nail trimming, we do it every 3-5 weeks, and average being 4. We just check up on our buns around 3-4 weeks and see if they need their nails trimmed. If there’s a good amount of nail that can be cut past the quick (on some rabbits who have white or lightly colored nails, the quick is obvious and red, and on some rabbits, like blacks, you can’t really see it. A good trick is to get a flashlight and shine it on a dark rabbits nails, or, you can cut little bits off a time. Try pressing down twice - gently, and not cutting - and if they don’t flinch, your safe to cut).
The most CRUCIAL thing when grooming your rabbit, is to remember to NEVER, EVER, EVER bathe your rabbit. This is incredibly dangerous and cruel to your pet. Rabbits do not enjoy bathes, and they are very unnecessary. Rabbits are self cleaning animals, like cats, and unless they have a serious medical condition and a rabbit-savvy veterinarian directs you to bathe your bun, then don't do it. If your bunny gets dirty outside, then use a DAMP towel to gently wipe them down. Rabbits can easily go into shock after a bathe, and their coats aren’t made to absorb water, so they can stay wet for hours, causing hypothermia. Not to mention water in the ears can cause serious infection.
Litter Box Training
Litter box training is very highly recommended to any bun owners. Rabbits can very easily be trained to use a litter box!
Remember, all of Whisper Lop's adult rabbits are trained to use a litter box, and all baby bunnies come mostly, if not completely, litter box trained!
First of all, you'll need a litter box, and litter. Remember, square ones are recommended vs. triangle ones. Click HERE to visit our "Bunny Checklist" page and to see product descriptions and get links to recommended litter boxes + litter.
To train your rabbit to use a litter box, (and for our babies that are going to their new home, to continue litter box habits) it is important to limit their space at first. If rabbits have too big of area before they are completely trained, or after switching environments, they may feel overwhelmed, and might pee outside the litter box. I'd say limit their space to 10 - 12 sq. ft. at first, and also limit playtime. I'd do this for the first 2 weeks, and if they are consistently using their box with little to no accidents, then you can make their space bigger and allow for more playtime outside their enclosure. If you plan to free roam, definitely don't do it at first.
When you're bun has an accident, wipe the pee up with a napkin, and place it in the box. This way, they will smell their pee in the box, and are more likely to go there. Then, go back over the spot they peed at with a towel that. has some white cleaning vinegar on it, and wipe it down. This will cover up the smell of their pee in that spot and make them less likely to go there again! For poos, remember, bunnies will pretty much always poop outside the box to some extent (and some buns don't poo outside the box) - it all depends on the bun. You can scoop up poos with a napkin, and place the poops back in the litter box to encourage pooing in the litter box.
If your rabbit really isn't using the litter box, and you notice them mainly going in one corner, then you should place their old litter box, or a new one, where there are going. A lot of buns will want to go in one specific spot they choose.
If your rabbit is peeing over the sides of the box, then a higher sided litter pan is in order. A hooded litter box may work well, or a larger cat box.
Remember, all of Whisper Lop's adult rabbits are trained to use a litter box, and all baby bunnies come mostly, if not completely, litter box trained!
First of all, you'll need a litter box, and litter. Remember, square ones are recommended vs. triangle ones. Click HERE to visit our "Bunny Checklist" page and to see product descriptions and get links to recommended litter boxes + litter.
To train your rabbit to use a litter box, (and for our babies that are going to their new home, to continue litter box habits) it is important to limit their space at first. If rabbits have too big of area before they are completely trained, or after switching environments, they may feel overwhelmed, and might pee outside the litter box. I'd say limit their space to 10 - 12 sq. ft. at first, and also limit playtime. I'd do this for the first 2 weeks, and if they are consistently using their box with little to no accidents, then you can make their space bigger and allow for more playtime outside their enclosure. If you plan to free roam, definitely don't do it at first.
When you're bun has an accident, wipe the pee up with a napkin, and place it in the box. This way, they will smell their pee in the box, and are more likely to go there. Then, go back over the spot they peed at with a towel that. has some white cleaning vinegar on it, and wipe it down. This will cover up the smell of their pee in that spot and make them less likely to go there again! For poos, remember, bunnies will pretty much always poop outside the box to some extent (and some buns don't poo outside the box) - it all depends on the bun. You can scoop up poos with a napkin, and place the poops back in the litter box to encourage pooing in the litter box.
If your rabbit really isn't using the litter box, and you notice them mainly going in one corner, then you should place their old litter box, or a new one, where there are going. A lot of buns will want to go in one specific spot they choose.
If your rabbit is peeing over the sides of the box, then a higher sided litter pan is in order. A hooded litter box may work well, or a larger cat box.